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Daisies and Roses Canvas

Traditions™ Artist Acrylic

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Daisies and Roses Canvas

designed by DecoArt Design Team

Fill a canvas with country daisies and miniature roses in Traditions™ Artist Acrylics for a romantic accent.

See more projects using this product.
Learn more about Traditions™ Artist Acrylic.

SUPPLIES

Primers, Sealers, and Finishes

  • Triple Thick Gloss Glaze (TG01)

Traditions™ Artist Acrylic

  • Burnt Umber (DAT46)
  • Carbon Black (DAT42)
  • Hansa Yellow Medium (DAT52)
  • Light Violet (DAT34)
  • Perinone Orange (DAT08)
  • Quinacridone Violet (DAT33)
  • Sap Green (DAT59)
  • Titanium White (DAT35)
  • Ultramarine Blue (DAT26)

Other supplies

  • water container
  • palette or plastic plate
  • paper towels
  • stylus or pencil
  • tracing paper (optional)
  • transfer paper
  • small spray bottle of water
  • #4 round brush
  • #6 filbert brush
  • #0 liner brush
  • sea sponge (or fan brush or old toothbrush)
  • 3/8" angle brush
  • 3/8" blender mop
  • 11" x 14" primed canvas (or larger)
  • extra fine permanent ink marker
  • easel, table model or standup

INSTRUCTIONS

  1. BACKGROUND: Using a spray bottle, lightly spray the entire surface of the canvas with water. (Do not overdo it or the paint will drip when applied. If you feel canvas is too wet, blot the excess with a paper towel.)
  2. Wet the sea sponge and squeeze out most of the water. Holding the damp sponge bunched up at one end tightly in your fingers, pick up a little Ultramarine Blue and pounce a few times on the palette or plastic plate to ensure even distribution of pigment throughout.
  3. Commence pouncing on the canvas, starting at the center and moving toward the bottom, letting the color fade without reloading every time. Thin out the design, as you get closer to edges by applying lighter pressure and holding the sponge sideways. Twist your hand so that the pattern changes with different angles.
  4. Should you prefer to use a fan brush or toothbrush for steps 2 and 3 above, dilute Ultramarine Blue with water to a creamy consistency. Load the brush and, holding it close to the ferrule, place your thumb on the bristles close to the canvas and splatter a random lacey pattern from the center toward each of the four edges.
  5. Proceed throughout the canvas alternating between Ultramarine Blue and Light Violet, until you have what seems like a diffused spray of background leaves in shadow colors. If one color is too strong, repeat sponging/splattering using Titanium White over that area. (These will resemble little sprays of baby breath and add to the composition.)
  6. Let the canvas dry completely before proceeding with tracing the flowers. (If you want to save the flower pattern sheet, trace the contents onto tracing paper first before transferring the design onto the canvas.) Avoid lining each daisy at equal intervals; place them in scattered little groups. If you practice painting the daisies on paper first, you may feel confident enough to free-hand them directly onto canvas without tracing each bloom.
  7. DAISIES: Using a #6 filbert brush or #4 round brush, start painting each blossom from the tip of the petal toward the center. Fully load the brush with Titanium White; press it on the tip of the petal; and gently glide it toward the corolla, while at same time decreasing pressure and twisting the brush from a position of the flat to the side chisel.
  8. Give each petal a delicate “comma” shape so the blossom does not look too stiff and unrealistic. (Avoid painting each petal identically; vary length, width, and angle, for a more natural look.) Remember, not every flower is facing you to form a pinwheel. Most will be at a 3/4 view or profile, at angle facing sideways, up or down, and in various sizes denoting the stages of a bloom’s maturity.
  9. In order for background darker colors not to show through, first basecoat the corolla Titanium White and let dry.
  10. Paint the daisies’ centers with either a double-loaded mini mop brush with Hansa Yellow Medium (on side facing upwards) and Perinone Orange (on other half facing downwards). Or you can use a filbert brush, painting the whole center Hansa Yellow Medium, and then shading bottom portion with Perinone Orange. Blend with the tip of the brush where the two colors meet.
  11. ROSES: Double-load an angle brush with Light Violet on the toe and darker Quinacridone Violet on the heel of the brush.
  12. On a wet palette, brush back and forth to blend the colors for an even gradation.
  13. Following the rose steps on the pattern, start with the heart of the rose, by painting an upside-down U-stroke, light paint facing upwards. Reload the brush and repeat the U-stroke, this time right-side up, connecting the two edges of the previous stroke.
  14. The surrounding petals are made by comma strokes, some in the shape of a number 7 (if you want to alternate round commas with more angular petals). Work from each side to the center for the first two layers and then make slightly bigger comma strokes from the side to 1/3 of the center and overlap with central comma stroke.
  15. Dot the centers with Hansa Yellow Medium pollen with the tip of an angle brush or with a liner brush.
  16. Single “U” turns of an angle brush double-loaded with Light Violet (toe) and Quinacridone Violet (heel) will give you the perfect bud. You can add a little Titanium White to the Light Violet on the tip to highlight the top petal.
  17. Use a liner brush loaded with Sap Green to paint the calyx, starting from the center bottom part of the bud, along the side, and gradually tapering off at the ends.
  18. Highlight the calyx with a hint of Hansa Yellow Medium.
  19. LEAVES: Load an angle brush with Sap Green, adding on its “toe” tip a little Hansa Yellow Medium alternated with Titanium White.
  20. Using a zig-zag motion, paint each leaf, positioning the Sap Green heel of the brush in the center and the toe of brush loaded with a lighter color on the outside.
  21. Follow the pattern designs and create some of your own leaf designs where needed.
  22. STEMS: Using a wet liner brush loaded with “inky” Sap Green and “inky” Burnt Umber, paint the stems, varying in length and size, starting from the bottom up and fading under the leaves and daisy blossoms. (By holding the brush with Sap Green facing one side and Burnt Umber on the other, you will get the effect of light shining on one side of the stem.)
  23. Highlight the center section of the some stems with a little Hansa Yellow Medium.
  24. BUTTERFLY: With a liner brush, paint the outer areas of the butterfly wings and body Carbon Black. Switching to Burnt Umber, continue painting the outer edges of the lighter areas inside the wings and body.
  25. If any of dark background shows through where Hansa Yellow Medium will be, basecoat these areas with Titanium White and let dry completely.
  26. Paint all the remaining spaces with Hansa Yellow Medium. While this is still wet, make “inky” puddle of Perinone Orange and, with the tip of a liner brush, paint around the outer edge of the Hansa Yellow Medium area.
  27. Blend Perinone Orange and Hansa Yellow Medium where they meet but make sure the center remains light Hansa Yellow Medium.
  28. Using a black extra fine point marker, start defining the edge of the corolla with little random dots 3/4 of the way around the flower base.
  29. Use the black marker to edge the butterfly body and antennae.
  30. Take another look at painting and highlight some of the daisy petal tips in the focal area with a second layer of Titanium White
  31. Let all dry completely.
  32. Seal with Triple Thick Gloss Glaze.